This account of the history of the South Side of Waltham was discovered at the Waltham library by Lesya Struz. It was written by a long-time resident of the Island, Warren E. Glancy, written for the Waltham Historical Society in 1974.
You may want to also take a look at the 1896 map of the Island (found in the documents section of the INA home page) as an aid in visualizing some of the places described here.
THE SOUTH SIDE of WALTHAM:
Notes on its Beginning, Growth, and Present Status
Written by Warren E. Glancy, 75 Riverview Avenue, Waltham, May 1,
1974
for the Waltham Historical Society
One of the most important acts of the town of Waltham took place in 1849. In that year, by action of the General Court and the payment of $1000, a section of the neighboring city of Newton was annexed to Waltham. There seem to have been two reasons for this action.
First, the property-owners and residents of the area (numbering 170) had a greater community of interest with near-by Waltham than with the more-distant political centers of Newton. Second, the town fathers, no doubt, foresaw a great potential value in the territory, especially since any new residents would be within walking distance of the mills of the Boston Manufacturing Company. In addition, the first bridge at Moody Street had been built a little earlier providing easier communication and movement from one side of the river to the other. Ownership of both banks would make for quicker decisions on bridge problems and access roads.
For 111 years, since its incorporation as a town, the southern boundary had followed the Charles River, extending along a rather irregular and winding course from the Watertown line to Stony Brook at the Weston line, a distance of over two miles.
Now the new south boundary was formed by drawing a straight line from a point east of Farwell Street and opposite to the Watertown-Waltham line in a south-westerly direction--reaching the river again at the southern point of Forest Grove and continuing across the river to Angleside. This irregular section between the river and the new boundary now to be called the South-Side, is said to have an area of about 600 acres.
One can only surmise at this time the physical appearance of the South Side area as it was in 1849. No doubt it resembled other sections of the Greater Boston area and the Waltham Plains--partially under cultivation and partially left in its natural state. We know that the land on which the watch factory was built was called the Bemis Farm. The land at the corner of Moody and Cherry Streets, on which the Methodist Church was built in 1888, was described as a cornfield.
The present Crescent Park, known as the Island section, was called Crams Island. Tradition is that it was used as a piggery. Certainly in the memory of this writer there was no sign of one, but there could have been one at an earlier date. The extreme south-east section, entering into Newton, was a cow-pasture in the early part of this century. Somewhere south of East Robbins Street there were woods and a meadow and violets and anemones and other wild flowers could be picked in the springtime--also wild strawberries on the east side of Crescent Park.
The terrain was generally favorable for building. There were no high hills but a gentle slope from a point near Reed's Corner on Moody Street north toward the river. At High Street the grade, while still gentle, was more pronounced. The land also sloped toward the river in a westerly direction. On occasion, coasting was permitted on Walnut Street, or so the sign said! Near the Newton line on Moody Street was Moore's Hill with a rather steep descent to Cram's Cove (sometimes called Packard's Cove). There was good tobogganing here.
Cram's Cove was broad and long enough to warrant the cutting of ice and the building of an ice-house at the east end which was in Newton. On the north side of the cove there were high bushes or trees about which there was water and here one could skate when the ice had formed. One recalled a place called Logan's Woods near here and a grove of chestnut trees near Derby Street. On the east side of this territory there was a small stream called Cranberry Brook which drained the meadow. Apparently it started at a point between East Brown and East Robbins Streets and flowed in an easterly direction under Cranberry Lane (later called Parmenter Road). It filled up a small pond just over the Newton line at High Street called Fuller's Pond; in winter it provided a safe place for the young fry to skate. It had an outlet in a northerly direction and meandered toward the river, reaching the Charles on the property of the Atlas Chemical Company after flowing beneath Calvary Street . Although the water from the brook must have been diverted, the outlet to the river is still visible. Fuller's Pond no longer exists, but the flat area where it was can be identified.
The conversion from a pleasant farming community in1849 to a fast-growing city in1900 must have been a great epoch for those active in municipal affairs, but only some of the activities of that period may be touched upon here.
A beginning of manufacturing had been made before the South Side had become a part of Waltham. A flourishing Newton Chemical (Chymical) Company had been established at a point near the river and Newton Street, financed largely by executives of the Boston Manufacturing Company across the river. They had undertaken the task of perfecting and bringing into commercial production a process developed by Dr. Samuel A. Dana, a Waltham resident. The only product at that time was sulfuric acid. After a typical period of hard times in getting started, the business became so profitable that it paid annual dividends of up to $200 per share. It expanded its plant and purchased a large amount of land. The land was said to include all that between High Street and the river with Newton Street on the east and Hall Street on the west.
That part of the city in the vicinity of the chemical plant became known as the Chemistry, a name which persisted for many years after the company had gone out of business. Those of us who lived west of Lowell Street always thought of it as the land east of Newton Street and south of High Street and the area near by Pine and Newton Streets. The Watertown Branch of the Fitchburg Railroad had a station near Newton Street first called Chemistry and then Newton Street. After the Civil War profits of the company decreased and it decided to liquidate. This was done with no loss to the stockholders.
Another company which commenced operations in the area of the Newton Chemical Company was the American Crayon Company. This had been organized to produce chalk crayons by a process developed by one Francis Field. The product became world famous. The Waltham name was spread at home and abroad by the use of Waltham Brand crayons in the schools. Eventually this company combined with another in Sandusky, Ohio, but continued to have an eastern office and warehouse on Felton Street until a New York office was established in 1919.
Illuminating gas was produced about 1854 in a plant between Pine Street and the river and an electric plant was added in 1886. One company, the Waltham Gas-Light Company, operated both plants. Although gas-holders have long since disappeared, the building used as an electric power plant is being used by The Waltham Bag and Paper Company.
But the best known of all the manufacturing companies was the Waltham Watch Company (known under various names). This was established about 1854 on Crescent Street before there was even a footbridge across the river at Prospect Street. A picture of the footbridge, built some years later, suggests that the river was much wider especially on the north side of the bridge than is now the case. The Watch Company was to become the largest single source of employment in the city which was to be known as the "Watch City". The story of the Watch Company has been well told in other publications. At its peak it probably had more than 3000 employees. Changing conditions in the watch trade caused its final liquidation in 1954. It had had a profound effect upon the economy of the city.
Several companies, especially in the machine line, sprang up. These made lathes and tools for the watch trade. The type of skills available in the area led to other lines of production: bicycles, milling machines, pumps, automobiles, watch dials. There was a Horological School, afterwards converted to a jewel-making shop. Among present operating companies, the W.H. Nichols Company is the largest and is best known wherever pumps for synthetic fiber manufacture are used. Precision in product manufacture is a key word for the Nichols Company and other companies located in the city. Although the South Side has no monopoly on the development of those companies, which spun off from the needs of watchmakers and of fine machine skills, it certainly had its share of small but valuable organizations for the manufacture of machine tools and instruments. Today the buildings of the former watch company are said to be occupied by 72 small companies.
With the great impetus of basic manufacturing there was naturally a large growth in the field of retail stores and commercial activity. The South-Side has the city's principal retail trade center.
A plan for the development of the land for homes and business was adopted. Many of the streets were satisfactory for a horse and buggy but hardly so for the automobile. As the streets were laid out in a north-south and east-west manner, some patterns of nomenclature emerged. The following are descriptive:
Crescent Its shape from Hall's Corner to Upper Moody
High Top of a grade
Riverview View along the river
Newton Road to Newton
Calvary To Calvary Cemetery
Then there were the names of trees: Spruce, Walnut, Chestnut, Maple, Cherry, Ash, Orange, Pine, Beech, Alder, Myrtle, Cedar, Acorn, Oak, Elm.
Another category was names of people identified with the city. Among these are Gordon, Taylor, Cushing, Brown, Robbins, Wadsworth, Underwood, Moody, Adams, Woerd, Rumford, Buttrick, Randle, Martin, Stearns, Hall, Lowell, Gardner, and Dennison.
The area was gradually built up with homes--many for workers
in the industries and many others for the usual complex of
residents in a growing community. Zoning was unheard of as the
city spread out. There were single, double, three apartments, and
some four apartment houses. Space was not acquired for future
automobile parking. Lots were mostly too small by modern
standards. As the automobile age came into full bloom, it caused
congestion. Houses built in the later stages of land development
had more modern planning. Some of those who had become more
affluent built more substantial domiciles. There was a sprinkling
of doctors, lawyers, clergymen, city officials, etc.
At the turn of the century there were three primary schools, grades 1 to 4 and one grammar school, grades 5 to 9. The primary schools were the Bemis, Stearns, and Lowell Schools. There was no kindergarten, but many children went to Mrs. Moore's private school on Alder Street. The Bemis School was located on Orange Street on the site now occupied by the housing for the elderly complex. The Stearns School was located on part of the site where the presently existing South Junior High School stands. The Lowell School was at the corner of Newton and Cutter Streets. T hat site has now been developed as a playground (the McDonald Playground).
The South Grammar School occupied the square bounded by High, Hall, Chestnut, and Lowell Streets. That area is now used for playground purposes and a branch of the public library. Those who went on to High School walked to the School Street location of the present Central Junior High School. There was no subsidized transportation.
The junior high system, introduced in the 1920's, brought a change in the design of buildings as well as curriculum. The Stearns and Lowell Schools were demolished. The junior high planned for grades 7, 8, and 9 was established in the block bounded by Moody, High, Beech and Alder Streets. This required the removal or demolition of a number of houses which faced on Moody and Alder Streets. The new Whittemore and Fitch elementary buildings were expected to provide quarters for grades 1 to 6. The Robbins School on Chestnut Street and the Bemis School were retained. The Robbins School has been occupied at one time as the south branch of the Public Library and at other times for special classes. It is currently being used for elementary classes. The Bemis School was subsequently demolished and the present housing complex erected on the site. The children of the older generations usually went to the public schools and some of these went on to institutions of higher learning.
At the time of my graduation from high school there were in the immediate neighborhood at least seven who had entered or who were about to enter The Massachusetts Institute of Technology and two to Harvard College. One of the most distinguished of these was Clarence D. Howe, son of a building contractor and a one-time president of the Board of Aldermen. Clarence later became a well-known high official of the Canadian Government, second only to the Premier. He also became president of the M.I.T. Alumni Association. Another who lived close by was Grover J. Cronin, founder of the large department store which bears his name. Among the neighbors there were also two editors of the Boston Transcript and a Boston Herald representative, school teachers and music teachers.
The early settlers, if one may judge by names, came from English stock. This persisted until well after 1900. A perusal of the graduating class program of the South Grammar class of 1907 indicates that out of a total number of 76 graduates , ten were of Irish descent and the remaining 66 were of English background. A similar conclusion could be drawn in checking the 90 graduates of the North Grammar School. As the years passed the complexion of the population changed. There were large influxes of Irish, Italian, and French people and a smaller numbers of other nationalities. There was a good representation of Swedish people and an occasional Jewish family. In 1974, the non-white population is minimal.
As the population grew, organized churches became part of the social fabric. These were established mostly by members of the larger Protestant groups-- Baptists, Methodists, and Episcopalians. In about 1895 a small Presbyterian Church was built. Other Christian groups were The Salvation Army and the Nazarene Church. The latter built a church on Myrtle Street. When they purchased the former Universalist building on Main Street, the Salvation Army acquired the Myrtle Street church building.
About 1909, the Roman Catholic Diocese established St. Charles Parish. A school was built at the corner of Hall and Taylor Streets and then the large church at Hall and Cushing Streets. The site of this church had been occupied by a single white house with an apple orchard on the corner and a second house with a large lot of land and apple trees adjoining on Cushing Street. This second lot, the former Hoyt property, was sold by my father to the Church. Later, from the roof of the apartment house across the street, I watched the ceremony as Archbishop O'Connell dedicated the church. It is now by far the largest parish on the South Side. The School has been torn down during the past year and the school program discontinued. This was one of many private schools which have had to close in the recent past because of inflationary and economic pressures.
My earliest recollections of local government stem from about 1896. It had to do with the election of William McKinley as President of the United States. There was a torchlight parade and doughnuts, coffee, and hot dogs were served in our back yard. It was a night not to be forgotten by a small boy! The city, heavily Republican at that time, made a night of it.
On the South Side there were three wards compared to four on the North Side. This proportion would appear to be reasonably fair, showing the large increase in population of the South Side compared to the rest of the city at that time. Two of the three wards, Wards 5 and 6, were Republican and Ward 7, Democratic. Elections to the Board of Aldermen usually reflected this division.
Like many other communities which were seeking better government, Waltham decided to abolish the Board of Aldermen in 1917 and try the City Manager form which had an elected council of five. This, too, was eliminated after a few years and the present Plan B was adopted. Plan B, as now operated, calls for a mayor and a council of fifteen--six elected at large and one from each of the nine wards. The South Side now has two wards, compared to seven for the rest of the city. This reflects the present division of population--11360 out of the total population of 55437, according to the 1971 state census. The population of the South Side is smaller at the present time than it was a few years ago due to various factors. It is practically 100% built up and there are few if any vacancies. Buildings have been demolished to provide business areas and parking. There are fewer children and more elderly. The much greater area of the North Side has made possible the great disparity of population as compared to the early part of this century.
Greater emphasis has been placed upon play grounds at the present time than was the case a generation or more ago. This is true on the South Side as well as in the rest of the city. The South Side has large playgrounds at Stony Batter (now McKenna Playground) and at upper Moody Street. The former has had a baseball diamond for generations. It is located off Elm Street near the river. The latter adjoins the dump area, now closed. Its future depends upon the possible erection of a new junior high school on the site and the expansion of the reclaimed dump for recreation.
Forest Grove, at the extreme southwest end of the South Side, is owned by the Metropolitan District Commission and is kept in a semi-wild condition with a grove of tall trees, mostly pines, set out to replace the dying oaks of the early 1930's. The city is permitted to use this park for summer day camp groups. There is some permanent equipment, including a covered pool, for the children. There are also inviting paths and picnic benches.
The so-called Woerd Avenue dump land was originally purchased by the city for playground purposes, but as time went on, it became increasingly evident that in the absence of another area for dumping the main purpose of this land was to be a dump. Now, because the dump has been more than filled and closed, it remains to be seen whether this land will be developed as originally planned.
The Gilman Playground, on the site of the old South Grammar School on High Street, has three modern tennis courts and a basketball area; it should be very popular. A branch library occupies a corner of the lot. Wading pools at the Fitch School and the McDonald Playground are well patronized in warm weather.
Residents of the South-Side, whose homes are located along the bank of the river, have the most direct interest in its use--present and future. There have been times in the past when this was considered a great asset, a place to bring enjoyment to all abutters and those who may use it.
The Nutting Boathouse at Prospect Street could hardly be considered South Side, but it was one of several boathouses in the city, the others being definitely "South". These were the Arnold, the Waltham Canoe Club, and the Waltham Boat and Canoe Company (Burgin's boathouse). The Arnold and Waltham Canoe Club buildings were side-by-side with an entrance from Woerd Avenue. The third boathouse was just inside of Cram's Cove on the site later occupied by the New England Mica Company. A fire of large proportions compelled this company to move to the building of the Waltham Canoe Club. This building also burned down in the recent past after it had been sold to the Odd Fellows. The Arnold structure had long since been demolished and the land sold to the State.
At one time the river was alive with canoes. Canoeing was a favorite sport for young men and their girl friends. Two canoe clubs, the Crescent and the Waltham Canoe Club, had crews for their war canoes. A crew was made up of ten paddlers. There was a good deal of rivalry between the clubs with at least one race each year. Regattas offered opportunities for canoeists and swimmers of all ages. The river was truly a center of good sport.
Some may remember the bath house which stood in the river near the south end of Moody Street bridge on the west side. It seemed to fill a need at the time (about 1900). Early records also show a skating rink located in what is now the Grover Cronin parking place. Forest Grove was used as a picnic ground which attracted large groups such as Sunday Schools for their outings before its purchase by the State. At a later date hundreds of youngsters enjoyed its bathing beach, which was ultimately closed because of pollution. Some wooden posts used for the diving float may still be seen.
Another sport which continues to flourish when the conditions are right is that of skating. Frequently during the winter, the ice in Purgatory Cove is cleared of snow so that boys can carry on their hockey games. If the winter is cold enough, ice on the main river attracts young and old for general skating as well as hockey. The bandstand on Fox Island where band concerts were held for the entertainment of canoeists is long since gone.
It also seems likely that river carnivals, for which the city was famous generations ago, are not likely to be renewed under present conditions. The last of these was held in 1930 upon the occasion of the Centennial of the Massachusetts Bay Colony. It was a gala night with more than 100,000 people to view the illuminated procession of boats and canoes and the decorated homes and grounds along the banks.
The year 1930 was probably the last year when ice was cut in the coves near the pumping station and then floated and pushed down the channel by the tug Hercules to the Peterson icehouse where the Reece plant now stands. When ice was being harvested, men worked day and night to get it stored before the temperature should become too high to complete the operation. We witnessed the ice-cutting scene from our home during our first winter at 75 Riverview Avenue.
Fishing has continued to attract men and boys. Bass, pickerel, sunfish, catfish, and carp, and perch reward their efforts. Some of these are quite large. Fishing through the ice seemed to be most successful, but I did see a small boy land a 5-pound catfish a few days ago. On another occasion a fisherman caught a 22-pound carp only to throw it back into the water. Yes, we see a muskrat upon occasion in the water and out.
If pollution has been a factor in reducing the usefulness and enjoyment of the river there is now hope that this will be corrected by the efforts of the state and federal governments. Work groups sponsored by the Charles River Watershed Association are now interested in having an annual cleanup of the banks of the river.
According to the Waltham Daily Tribune in its Souvenir Edition of September 8, 1891, service on the Fitchburg Railroad of that time was excellent. There were 45 trains in each direction for commuters each day as well as regular freights. We also learn from the same source that the street railway which started in 1868 to give service from Main Street to the watch factory by the use of horse cars was converted to electric service in 1890 and the line extended from West Newton where it connected with the Boston and Albany Railroad to Newton Corner.
The electric street railway seems to have been very popular; new lines were introduced. Tracks were laid on Moody Street and on Maple and High Streets in addition to Crescent Street. Southsiders could now go directly to Newtonville via High Street or to Auburndale, Roberts, or any other destination afforded North Side travelers. In about 1905, the line was double-tracked on Moody Street. Tracks had been laid to carry passengers to the Island and Auburndale and at one time there was a spur for the use of picnic parties who wished to go to Forest Grove.
The electric street railway, in which a great deal of capital was invested, found new competition in the coming of the buses. The tracks were taken up, the trolley wires removed, and cars and power houses dismantled. The bus system itself has become unprofitable. The company has liquidated and public transportation is possible only by government subsidy.
In the "Gay Nineties", before the automobile had come into its own, the horse was still king. The horse was the unit of power by which the mechanical machines were measured. In town and on the farm the horse was used for motive power and for many purposes. When the fire-alarm rang, it was a sight to behold when three great horses guided by a careful driver, pulled the steamer down Moody Street at breakneck speed. It was an awesome day when an arsonist set fire to the Moody Street Fire-Station and five horses were burned to death.
The horse was a reliable animal. The butcher, the baker, the builder, the plumber, the coal-man, the mason, the doctor, and others all relied upon the horse to get them where they wanted to go or to carry goods wherever these might be needed. But a horse needed a stable and regular care. A stable was built near by his owner's home and later, when converted to a garage, retained its unmistakable odor. I well knew that our horse had to be fed, bedded down, curried, and exercised, and the stall cleaned regularly. An animal could not be neglected.
In the early nineteen hundreds, the horse was still used for most of the hauling, but the automobile was gradually becoming recognized as the probable conveyance of the future. Many a young person was interested in scrounging parts and in trying to make his own car. On the South side the streets often resounded with the noise of a home made car being tried out. Cars manufactured at the Metz Plant on Rumford Avenue were given tests on the streets nearby and wore out the roadways very fast. Small repair shops sprang up. The beginnings of a new era were here.
When a heavy snow storm occurred in the pre-auto age, the horse and sidewalk plow made a path for pedestrians. No attempt was made nor was equipment available to remove snow from the streets. An effort was made to clear away the snow which would impede fire trucks from leaving the fire-station. This was done by whatever means were available to the firemen.
Until very recently, old people who were unable to support or care for themselves were either kept in the homes of their children or placed in the almshouse. Today, society through the government has provided homes which are available at a subsidized cost to many retired people who have insufficient income to carry on the cost of a home at current rents. On the South side, there are available two such complexes. One of these is on Orange Street, on the old Bemis School site and the other on Myrtle Street. In addition, a privately endowed organization, the Jonas Willis Parmenter Home, Inc., has established the Harriet Adelaide Hovey Home on Crescent Street. The Veterans Administration has also built a unit for the families of veterans on Lowell Street near Pine Street.
One of the groups which had organized athletic teams and had a
meeting place was called the Roadsters. This group continued to
meet on at least an annual basis for many years after its
athletic teams had disbanded. Its last meeting place was in the
building on Woerd Avenue, until recently occupied by the New
England Mica Company.
Social clubs are conducted by both Italian and French - speaking groups. The Italian Club is located in their own building at High and Cedar Streets. The French Club is on Elm Street near Pine.
During the period of rapid growth of the South side a number of fraternal organizations were very active. Several of these met in the lodge rooms of the A.O.U.W. Building on Moody Street. Among these were the Odd Fellows, Red Yen, Knights of Pythias and their auxiliaries. A more recent addition is the large building of the Order of Moose on Spruce Street.
Troops of boy and girl Scouts have been sponsored by churches and schools for many years. A unique troop is the one sponsored by the W.R. Nichols Company organization. This is a Sea-Scout Troop.
The Free Reading Room, located on Crescent Street on the site of the present Hovey House, was a philanthropic venture of Arthur Astor Carey. It provided facilities for boys to take gymnasium instruction and to enjoy the heated pool as well as to have a place to read. There was good supervision and some excellent swimming teams were developed. During my high school days, I patronized it regularly. The plant was later taken over by the Waltham Watch Company for the use of their employees.
In concluding this story about the South-Side, it would seem reasonable to state that this area is unique among the various parts of Waltham. It is true that it must look across the river for its political nerve center, municipal services, hospital, senior high school, main library, the Prospect Hill recreation center, Boys' Club, etc. Otherwise it is largely an integrated community.
There are basic industries of desirable type which furnish employment for thousands of people and it has the city's principal business and retail trade center. It has its own Post Office, banks, Social Security Office, and the city's only newspaper. To these add the churches, schools, playgrounds, housing for the elderly and Veterans' families, and the social clubs.
The river bank, much of it owned or controlled by the state, especially in the upper part, should continue to provide a green belt or open space, a definite advantage to the community. In a thickly built area such as this, housing may continue to be a problem. Most of the homes are of the older type; but many of these are being modernized and many brick apartment houses have been built in the recent past. These have provided several hundred new apartments.
One cannot view the future of this part of the city in the optimistic manner of some writers of the past especially like that of the writer in the Waltham Daily Tribune in l91? It seems probable, however, that it will remain a vibrant, valuable asset of the whole city for many years to come.
Warren E. Glancy
May 1, 1974